Restaurant Review

Articles
VDARA
735 Queen Street West
(416) 868-3272
www.vdararestaurant.com


feb09_rrpic Smoothe groovy sounds of laid back jazz greet us as we come in shivering from the cold. Vdara is a newcomer to the area, open since mid-December, with a bar / supper / lounge feel. The black and white décor is upscale yet welcoming, with comfy chairs and muted light from eclectic chandeliers. With glass walls on two sides, patrons can sit and watch the bohemian Queen West street scene while sipping on one of Vdara’s 20 plus martinis or sparkling cocktails.

Our editor goes straight for the PomPom, a blend of pomegranate liqueur, real pomegranate juice, and Italian Prosecco. Refreshing and yummy! She can’t get over the pomegranate kernels floating in her glass. In keeping with my love affair with bitters, I  try the Classic Champagne Cocktail; an Angostura bitters-soaked sugar cube drowning in a glass of bubbly with a dash of brandy. What a great way to prime the pump for things to come.

As we peruse the menu, our server (Chris) stops by to explain the unique traits of this new resto. Executive chef Mani Binelli uses fresh, seasonal, locally grown ingredients, and his busy kitchen makes much onsite – pickled veggies ferment in huge barrels in the back, just like days of old in Ontario’s farm kitchens. Bread is baked daily, and there will soon be take-away bakery options (appropriate, as this is the former site of the original Future Bakery).

From the affordable wine list we order a bottle of pink tinged Concilio Pinot Grigio ($28). Lovely.

Vdara’s menu mixes chic and cheeky with starters like Duck U Chicken, a baked empanada stuffed with Quebec duck and Ontario chicken. The accompanying tart sour cherry compote is a perfect contrast to the delicate empanadas. Arriving next is Pingue Niagara Prosciutto atop pesto puff pastry sticks and house mix pickles; this is comfort food at its most elegant! And our last appetizer is not to be missed: mixed slivered beets and zesty greens on pulled spaghetti squash with shredded horseradish. Each platter is exquisitely presented and very satisfying (they range from $6.95-$11.95).

For mains, there are a variety of dishes on offer: Beef Ribs, Wild Boar and Bison stew, Braised Alberta lamb shank, as well as Colonel’s 16 Herb and Spice Chicken Supreme served with a clementine veloute plus collard greens and corn muffin.

We share the Moulard Duck Confit ($17.95) and the vegetarian Celery Root lasagna ($14.95). The confit is crispy and served with bitter greens, house sauerkraut gratin and sour cherries. We are amazed at the transformation of the basic Ontario cabbage, fermented onsite into a splendid sauerkraut. We cannot resist asking for some to take home! The combination of textures and flavours is truly satisfying.

The Celery-root lasagna combines rich layers of wild mushrooms and grilled veggies with herbed goat cheese. We were almost finished before we realized that the celery root has entirely replaced the pasta. No wheat in this recipe! As the only vegetarian main on this menu, it’s a real winner. This kitchen is also happy to accommodate customized vegetarian requests, especially if made in advance.

Because we have arrived early in the evening, the place is fairly quiet (it gets busy later) so Chef Binelli comes out to visit us tableside, sharing both his culinary humour and upcoming plans for more inspired creations in the future. Our editor decides that he’s as yummy as his culinary creations.

At last we relax into desserts: flourless chocolate cake and a decadent apple tart. Simple yet superb. The fresh ingredients speak for themselves.

Whether you cozy up to the plush bar, or settle at an elegant table, Vdara is a find – the perfect place for a special Valentine’s meal with playful, slightly naughty menu quips, sensuous meals, and a romantic ambience.

Review by Carol Little

ORGANIC DESSERTS FIND A WHOLE NEW GROOVE!

feb09_LPKpic Celebrating its tenth year in business, LPK’s Culinary Groove launched its flagship store at 718 Queen St. East (east of Broadview) in November 2008.

For the past decade, LPK’s Culinary Groove has created some of Toronto’s most beautiful and delicious custom-designed cakes, pastries and chocolates. In the past three years, LPK’s has also made the commitment to using certified organic and fair trade ingredients, along with seasonal and local ingredients when possible. With the launch of its new pastry and chocolate shop, LPK’s will provide Toronto with a daily selection of organic signature cakes, pastries and chocolates in addition to creating custom-designed wedding and other special occasion cakes. LPK’s will also feature a regular selection of decadent vegan and gluten-free desserts.

LPK’s is also committed to reducing its carbon footprint in several ways. By choosing more eco-friendly materials and equipment in the renovation of its new retail space, using cleaner energy through Bullfrog Power, incorporating more environmentally responsible packaging, reducing the amount of packaging used in general, along with having an eco-friendly sanitation plan, LPK’s will continually strive to reduce its environmental impact on the planet.

With signature cakes like Devil’s Chocolate Food Cake with Bittersweet Caramel Ganache and Salted Chocolate Buttercream and Coconut Lime Cake with Lime Scented Frosting (vegan and gluten-free), pastries like Mini Lemon Meringue Tarts and Peanut Butter Mousse in Edible Chocolate Cups, and truffles like Vanilla Cardamom, Honey Lavender and Toasted Sesame, LPK’s flavour combinations appeal to a wide variety of clients  – from those who desire classic flavour combinations to those who crave a more modern and experimental approach to desserts.

“Dessert is an indulgence,” says owner and executive pastry chef Lesia Kohut. “It is something people really enjoy but are too often disappointed in. Many times a pastry or chocolate may look stunning, but in the end lacks flavour and/or texture, especially when it comes to vegan and gluten-free desserts. Kohut states, “At LPK’s we believe it’s important to create desserts that are as delicious as they are beautiful, without compromising the livelihoods of people in other parts of the world, and without polluting our environment.”

So if you want to pick up a lovely organic treat for your sweetie on Valentines Day, this is the place to do it.

Visit www.lpksculinarygroove.com or contact Roxanne Keeping at 416.461.6440, by email roxanne@lpksculinarygroove.com