Rhubarb Rhapsody
May 2008
Features
By Linda Gabris
When I was a kid, my grandparents had the biggest, hardiest rhubarb patch in the entire Muskoka countryside! Enough bounty to keep us in good eating throughout the growing season from mid-April onward to late summer. And there was plenty leftover for grandmother to put up for winter use by canning or drying, and for grandpa to fill his big wooden wine barrel to make a brew that he claimed was good for whatever ailed you, especially sore bones (or rheumatism as grandmother rightly called it). Since I never suffered from sore bones like grandpa did, I never got to sample the special tonic that he praised as being clear as a bell and smooth as a flannel.
Today I make rhubarb wine in the same fashion as grandpa did and even though I don’t have sore bones to justify breaking open a bottle, I do enjoy it as an aperitif and dessert wine. I also follow the advice in grandmother’s old doctoring journals for using the wine to break up congestion and treat sinus pain. To make the remedy: heat 3/4 cup of rhubarb wine to boiling, sweeten it with rhubarb syrup or honey, add a pinch of grated ginger (grandma used ground wild ginger root since fresh commercial ginger root was hard to come by) and sip slowly while inhaling the soothing vapours. It works like a charm and is very pleasant to boot. This also works wonders at inducing sleep. However, it should not be administered to children because of its alcohol content.
Although I never got to sample more than a whiff of grandpa’s homemade wine, I did get to enjoy rhubarb in dozens of grandmother’s delicious recipes. In her book, rhubarb was considered a fruit, a vegetable and a herb. She used it in everything from desserts, savoury supper dishes and relishes, to medicinal syrups and teas for treating a variety of everyday ailments and common complaints.
Rhubarb (Rheum officinal) is a herbaceous perennial native to Asia where it has been cultivated and used medicinally since about 2700 B.C. Ancient healers prized rhubarb for its purgative qualities, a property alluded to in grandmother’s old writings where she claimed that rhubarb is a sure cure for getting regular.
Her simple remedy calls for those who are bound up to sip on a cup of rhubarb tea (recipe below) before bedtime – and in the morning all will be back on track. I can vouch that it does the trick every time! She also claims the tea is a number one spring tonic for flushing impurities from the system. Old World herbalists called upon rhubarb for controlling fever, expelling worms from the intestines, and for a host of other afflictions including sexually transmitted diseases.
Early explorers and traders brought rhubarb to Europe for pharmaceutical use but it wasn’t until about the 17th century that it was recognized as a food item, about the same time sugar became an affordable staple for common folks who quickly discovered that rhubarb was delicious when sweetened. In Germany, it was dubbed “pie plant” which describes one of rhubarb’s must traditional uses in both Europe and North America. It was grandpa’s favourite dessert which he fondly called Epucker pie.
In my younger days I called rhubarb “sour celery” and could never pass the patch without stopping to pick a mouth-watering stalk for nibbling.( Against grandma’s wish I used to sneak a handful of salt or sugar out of the kitchen for dipping my stick into.) I am wiser today and even though I still enjoy a fresh stalk of rhubarb as a thirst-quencher when working in the garden, I’ve broken the bad habit of dunking. When the occasion calls for a special treat, I spread a stalk of rhubarb with peanut butter and sprinkle with sesame seeds and smile knowing that grandma would approve!
You can buy locally grown rhubarb at produce stands or larger grocery stores during prime season. Or grow a patch of your own to add a splash of greenery to most any corner of the yard. Even those who don’t have green thumbs or gardens can enjoy a patch of rhubarb as it’s super easy to grow.
Evidence of rhubarb’s hardiness can often be seen around old grown-in homesteads where patches still flourish beneath rotting boards. Although rhubarb that’s gone wild tends to get tough and pithy, such a patch can be re-tamed simply by digging up a clump and setting it into new ground where it has room to re-establish itself. Pruning by thinning out the stalks encourages production.
Young plants can be bought at a nursery or greenhouse, but an even better way to establish a patch is to do it like my grandparents did – sharing from garden to garden, known as transplanting by the division method. In early spring when the tiny red heads first appear, a crown is lifted, split into several pieces, and then replanted in freshly prepared soil where it will re-root.
There are a number of popular varieties suited to Ontario gardens such as Canada Red (also known as Macdonald or Crimson rhubarb), Strawberry, Ruby, Tilden, Prince Albert and Valentine, as well as more exotic varieties like Egyptian Queen and German Wine.
Stalks grow from a foot to over 5 feet tall and vary in colour from pale green to deep red. Some types have thin tender skin which does not have to be removed, while others need to be to be peeled as their skins are stringy. To peel rhubarb, slip off the strings by pulling downwards with your fingers.
Rhubarb is a good source of dietary fibre, contains potassium and is rich in malic and citric acids with healthy amounts of vitamin C needed for good health. It was a life-saver for early North American settlers who didn’t have year-round access to fresh citrus fruits, peppers and other sources of vitamin C needed to ward off scurvy. It contains calcium, but since it is also rich in oxalic acid the calcium is not easily absorbed by the body.
In olden days when fruit trees were started from seeds rather than bought as saplings as they are today, it took a number of years before traditional tree fruits like apples and plums were ready to harvest. Rhubarb, on the other hand, supplied fresh fruit within the first season of planting.
In warmer climates throughout the world, rhubarb grows year-round and some Old World gardeners like grandmother have had luck at forcing plants in the root cellar over the winter. This is done by setting roots into peat moss or sawdust and placing in a cool, dark place. Once watering begins, the plant sends up tiny shoots that look like little asparagus and are perfect for any recipe calling for fresh rhubarb.
If you’ve never taken rhubarb beyond the traditional pie, then it’s time to broaden your horizons. Below are a few of grandmother’s Old World recipes and a couple of exciting new creations to kick off the season.
But first a word of caution: rhubarb leaves are toxic and should never be eaten. And although herbalists and ancient healers used the roots for medicinal preparations, they also should not be consumed. It’s the juicy stalk that stalkers are after.
How to Put Rhubarb Up for Winter Use
Grandmother served stewed rhubarb swirled with fresh cream. I’ve updated the old recipe by using low-fat unflavoured yogurt instead of cream. This mouth-watering tart dessert also makes delightful topping for ice cream, pudding or custards. Grandpa liked it stirred into his morning porridge. This can be made in larger batches and frozen.
1. Put 4 cups of thinly sliced rhubarb into a saucepan along with 1/2 cup water and enough sugar or maple syrup to sweeten. In the olden days, grandma seasoned it with cinnamon but I find that a pinch of fresh grated ginger creates a whole new taste sensation. Simmer until tender, about 10 minutes.
2. Blend 1 Tbsp of minute tapioca into 1/4 cup of water and stir into hot stew. Cook until thick and clear. Frozen or dried berries can be cooked along with the rhubarb for variety.
Old-fashioned Rhubarb Syrup
1. Cut 1 pound of rhubarb into small pieces and put in saucepan along with 1 cup boiling water. Let stand 5 minutes for flavour to draw. Bring to a boil and simmer until rhubarb is mushy. Pour into a cheesecloth-lined strainer and strain. Measure juice into clean pan and add 1 cup of sugar per cup of juice. Bring to a boil. Simmer until syrup consistency. Bottle and store in fridge where it will save indefinitely.
Rhubarb Quencher
Nothing quenches a summer thirst like a refreshingly tart Rhubarb Quencher made from rhubarb syrup. Since rhubarb was much easier to come by than lemons, this drink was more popular than lemonade. To make, use 1 tsp (more or less to suit taste) of rhubarb syrup per cup of water or soda. Serve over ice with a sprig of fresh mint. This syrup can also be called upon to add a sweet tang to dipping sauces and salad dressings.
Cough Syrup: take 1 tsp pure syrup before bed to help break up phlegm.
Rhubarb Tea
For pleasure drinking
1. Steep 1 Tbsp of dried rhubarb per cup of boiling water until desired strength is reached. Sweeten with rhubarb syrup, if desired. If taking medicinally for laxative, reduce water to 1/2 cup.
2. For cold and flu add a pinch of ginger and lemon to the cup. A couple of bruised cloves simmered in the tea will help ease sore throat.
Rosy Rhubarb Relish
This is an excellent relish to spoon over poached fish, poultry or meat. Or serve it in place of traditional pickle relish or salsa.
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 cups diced rhubarb
1 cup diced tomatoes
1 minced sweet red pepper
1 minced chili pepper (optional)
1 minced onion
1 minced clove garlic
1 Tbsp sweet paprika
1 tsp fresh grated ginger
Seasoned salt to taste
Honey as desired
1. Heat oil in skillet, sauté all ingredients, except honey, until rhubarb is soft. Cook until liquid is reduced to desired consistency. Sweeten to taste with honey.
Edith’s Rhubarb Chutney
This zappy recipe is deeply-rooted in East Indian cuisine. It makes a delicious accompaniment to any curried dish. Recipe can be halved if you find this makes too big of a batch to suit your needs.
1 pound sliced rhubarb
1/2 pound minced onions
2 cups dark raisins
1 cup yellow raisins
Pulp and juice of 1 lemon, plus 1 tsp finely grated rind
2 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp mustard seeds
1/4 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp curry powder
3 Tbsp brown sugar
1 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup water
1. Put all ingredients into large pan. Stir well. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thick and fragrant. Taste and adjust seasonings.
2. Ladle into sterilized jars and seal or, do as I do, and put into zip-lock bags and freeze.
Rhubarb-Currant Muffins
These moist, fragrant muffins have a hint of orange. They save well and the recipe can be doubled for freezing. Great for lunch boxes. Makes about 2 dozen small or 1 dozen large muffins depending on size of tins
Dry Ingredients:
2 cups flour
3/4 cup sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp each of cinnamon and nutmeg
1 tsp finely grated orange zest
1/2 cup dried currants
1-1/2 cup sliced peeled rhubarb
Moist Ingredients:
1 egg
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup orange juice
1. Combine dry ingredients in large bowl. Blend moist ingredients together and slowly mix into the dry ingredients, stirring until smooth. Fill non-stick muffin tins 2/3 full. Bake 350 F for 30 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.
Easy Rhubarb Wine
(Makes 4 to 6 bottles)
6 pounds washed, unskinned rhubarb, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
1 gallon boiling water
8 cups sugar
1 package or envelope of yeast (I use baker’s yeast as grandpa did but you can use real wine yeast if you’d rather)
1. Put rhubarb in suitable-sized container (glass, earthen or wooden barrel) and cover with boiling water. Let stand 3 days.
2. Strain through cheesecloth lined sieve. Pour juice into fermentation jar, add sugar and yeast and put on air-lock. Do not disturb for 2 to 3 weeks until working stops (bubbles will stop rising in the airlock).
3. Siphon into sterilized wine bottles, cork and label. Store in wine cellar or cool dark place. Mature at least 3 months before sampling – the longer the better.
By Linda GabrisWhen I was a kid, my grandparents had the biggest, hardiest rhubarb patch in the entire Muskoka countryside! Enough bounty to keep us in good eating throughout the growing season from mid-April onward to late summer. And there was plenty leftover for grandmother to put up for winter use by canning or drying, and for grandpa to fill his big wooden wine barrel to make a brew that he claimed was good for whatever ailed you, especially sore bones (or rheumatism as grandmother rightly called it). Since I never suffered from sore bones like grandpa did, I never got to sample the special tonic that he praised as being clear as a bell and smooth as a flannel.
Today I make rhubarb wine in the same fashion as grandpa did and even though I don’t have sore bones to justify breaking open a bottle, I do enjoy it as an aperitif and dessert wine. I also follow the advice in grandmother’s old doctoring journals for using the wine to break up congestion and treat sinus pain. To make the remedy: heat 3/4 cup of rhubarb wine to boiling, sweeten it with rhubarb syrup or honey, add a pinch of grated ginger (grandma used ground wild ginger root since fresh commercial ginger root was hard to come by) and sip slowly while inhaling the soothing vapours. It works like a charm and is very pleasant to boot. This also works wonders at inducing sleep. However, it should not be administered to children because of its alcohol content.
Although I never got to sample more than a whiff of grandpa’s homemade wine, I did get to enjoy rhubarb in dozens of grandmother’s delicious recipes. In her book, rhubarb was considered a fruit, a vegetable and a herb. She used it in everything from desserts, savoury supper dishes and relishes, to medicinal syrups and teas for treating a variety of everyday ailments and common complaints.
Rhubarb (Rheum officinal) is a herbaceous perennial native to Asia where it has been cultivated and used medicinally since about 2700 B.C. Ancient healers prized rhubarb for its purgative qualities, a property alluded to in grandmother’s old writings where she claimed that rhubarb is a sure cure for getting regular.
Her simple remedy calls for those who are bound up to sip on a cup of rhubarb tea (recipe below) before bedtime – and in the morning all will be back on track. I can vouch that it does the trick every time! She also claims the tea is a number one spring tonic for flushing impurities from the system. Old World herbalists called upon rhubarb for controlling fever, expelling worms from the intestines, and for a host of other afflictions including sexually transmitted diseases.
Early explorers and traders brought rhubarb to Europe for pharmaceutical use but it wasn’t until about the 17th century that it was recognized as a food item, about the same time sugar became an affordable staple for common folks who quickly discovered that rhubarb was delicious when sweetened. In Germany, it was dubbed “pie plant” which describes one of rhubarb’s must traditional uses in both Europe and North America. It was grandpa’s favourite dessert which he fondly called Epucker pie.
In my younger days I called rhubarb “sour celery” and could never pass the patch without stopping to pick a mouth-watering stalk for nibbling.( Against grandma’s wish I used to sneak a handful of salt or sugar out of the kitchen for dipping my stick into.) I am wiser today and even though I still enjoy a fresh stalk of rhubarb as a thirst-quencher when working in the garden, I’ve broken the bad habit of dunking. When the occasion calls for a special treat, I spread a stalk of rhubarb with peanut butter and sprinkle with sesame seeds and smile knowing that grandma would approve!
You can buy locally grown rhubarb at produce stands or larger grocery stores during prime season. Or grow a patch of your own to add a splash of greenery to most any corner of the yard. Even those who don’t have green thumbs or gardens can enjoy a patch of rhubarb as it’s super easy to grow.
Evidence of rhubarb’s hardiness can often be seen around old grown-in homesteads where patches still flourish beneath rotting boards. Although rhubarb that’s gone wild tends to get tough and pithy, such a patch can be re-tamed simply by digging up a clump and setting it into new ground where it has room to re-establish itself. Pruning by thinning out the stalks encourages production.
Young plants can be bought at a nursery or greenhouse, but an even better way to establish a patch is to do it like my grandparents did – sharing from garden to garden, known as transplanting by the division method. In early spring when the tiny red heads first appear, a crown is lifted, split into several pieces, and then replanted in freshly prepared soil where it will re-root.
There are a number of popular varieties suited to Ontario gardens such as Canada Red (also known as Macdonald or Crimson rhubarb), Strawberry, Ruby, Tilden, Prince Albert and Valentine, as well as more exotic varieties like Egyptian Queen and German Wine.
Stalks grow from a foot to over 5 feet tall and vary in colour from pale green to deep red. Some types have thin tender skin which does not have to be removed, while others need to be to be peeled as their skins are stringy. To peel rhubarb, slip off the strings by pulling downwards with your fingers.
Rhubarb is a good source of dietary fibre, contains potassium and is rich in malic and citric acids with healthy amounts of vitamin C needed for good health. It was a life-saver for early North American settlers who didn’t have year-round access to fresh citrus fruits, peppers and other sources of vitamin C needed to ward off scurvy. It contains calcium, but since it is also rich in oxalic acid the calcium is not easily absorbed by the body.
In olden days when fruit trees were started from seeds rather than bought as saplings as they are today, it took a number of years before traditional tree fruits like apples and plums were ready to harvest. Rhubarb, on the other hand, supplied fresh fruit within the first season of planting.
In warmer climates throughout the world, rhubarb grows year-round and some Old World gardeners like grandmother have had luck at forcing plants in the root cellar over the winter. This is done by setting roots into peat moss or sawdust and placing in a cool, dark place. Once watering begins, the plant sends up tiny shoots that look like little asparagus and are perfect for any recipe calling for fresh rhubarb.
If you’ve never taken rhubarb beyond the traditional pie, then it’s time to broaden your horizons. Below are a few of grandmother’s Old World recipes and a couple of exciting new creations to kick off the season.
But first a word of caution: rhubarb leaves are toxic and should never be eaten. And although herbalists and ancient healers used the roots for medicinal preparations, they also should not be consumed. It’s the juicy stalk that stalkers are after.
How to Put Rhubarb Up for Winter Use
- To freeze: simply slice or dice, put into zip-lock bags and freeze.
- To dry: cut into thin slices, dry on screens in sunroom or in dehydrator according to your manual’s directions until crisp and all moisture is gone.
- To preserve by canning: follow instructions in your pressure canner’s manual.
Grandmother served stewed rhubarb swirled with fresh cream. I’ve updated the old recipe by using low-fat unflavoured yogurt instead of cream. This mouth-watering tart dessert also makes delightful topping for ice cream, pudding or custards. Grandpa liked it stirred into his morning porridge. This can be made in larger batches and frozen.
1. Put 4 cups of thinly sliced rhubarb into a saucepan along with 1/2 cup water and enough sugar or maple syrup to sweeten. In the olden days, grandma seasoned it with cinnamon but I find that a pinch of fresh grated ginger creates a whole new taste sensation. Simmer until tender, about 10 minutes.
2. Blend 1 Tbsp of minute tapioca into 1/4 cup of water and stir into hot stew. Cook until thick and clear. Frozen or dried berries can be cooked along with the rhubarb for variety.
Old-fashioned Rhubarb Syrup
1. Cut 1 pound of rhubarb into small pieces and put in saucepan along with 1 cup boiling water. Let stand 5 minutes for flavour to draw. Bring to a boil and simmer until rhubarb is mushy. Pour into a cheesecloth-lined strainer and strain. Measure juice into clean pan and add 1 cup of sugar per cup of juice. Bring to a boil. Simmer until syrup consistency. Bottle and store in fridge where it will save indefinitely.
Rhubarb Quencher
Nothing quenches a summer thirst like a refreshingly tart Rhubarb Quencher made from rhubarb syrup. Since rhubarb was much easier to come by than lemons, this drink was more popular than lemonade. To make, use 1 tsp (more or less to suit taste) of rhubarb syrup per cup of water or soda. Serve over ice with a sprig of fresh mint. This syrup can also be called upon to add a sweet tang to dipping sauces and salad dressings.
Cough Syrup: take 1 tsp pure syrup before bed to help break up phlegm.
Rhubarb Tea
For pleasure drinking
1. Steep 1 Tbsp of dried rhubarb per cup of boiling water until desired strength is reached. Sweeten with rhubarb syrup, if desired. If taking medicinally for laxative, reduce water to 1/2 cup.
2. For cold and flu add a pinch of ginger and lemon to the cup. A couple of bruised cloves simmered in the tea will help ease sore throat.
Rosy Rhubarb Relish
This is an excellent relish to spoon over poached fish, poultry or meat. Or serve it in place of traditional pickle relish or salsa.
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 cups diced rhubarb
1 cup diced tomatoes
1 minced sweet red pepper
1 minced chili pepper (optional)
1 minced onion
1 minced clove garlic
1 Tbsp sweet paprika
1 tsp fresh grated ginger
Seasoned salt to taste
Honey as desired
1. Heat oil in skillet, sauté all ingredients, except honey, until rhubarb is soft. Cook until liquid is reduced to desired consistency. Sweeten to taste with honey.
Edith’s Rhubarb Chutney
This zappy recipe is deeply-rooted in East Indian cuisine. It makes a delicious accompaniment to any curried dish. Recipe can be halved if you find this makes too big of a batch to suit your needs.
1 pound sliced rhubarb
1/2 pound minced onions
2 cups dark raisins
1 cup yellow raisins
Pulp and juice of 1 lemon, plus 1 tsp finely grated rind
2 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp mustard seeds
1/4 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp curry powder
3 Tbsp brown sugar
1 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup water
1. Put all ingredients into large pan. Stir well. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thick and fragrant. Taste and adjust seasonings.
2. Ladle into sterilized jars and seal or, do as I do, and put into zip-lock bags and freeze.
Rhubarb-Currant Muffins
These moist, fragrant muffins have a hint of orange. They save well and the recipe can be doubled for freezing. Great for lunch boxes. Makes about 2 dozen small or 1 dozen large muffins depending on size of tins
Dry Ingredients:
2 cups flour
3/4 cup sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp each of cinnamon and nutmeg
1 tsp finely grated orange zest
1/2 cup dried currants
1-1/2 cup sliced peeled rhubarb
Moist Ingredients:
1 egg
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup orange juice
1. Combine dry ingredients in large bowl. Blend moist ingredients together and slowly mix into the dry ingredients, stirring until smooth. Fill non-stick muffin tins 2/3 full. Bake 350 F for 30 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.
Easy Rhubarb Wine
(Makes 4 to 6 bottles)
6 pounds washed, unskinned rhubarb, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
1 gallon boiling water
8 cups sugar
1 package or envelope of yeast (I use baker’s yeast as grandpa did but you can use real wine yeast if you’d rather)
1. Put rhubarb in suitable-sized container (glass, earthen or wooden barrel) and cover with boiling water. Let stand 3 days.
2. Strain through cheesecloth lined sieve. Pour juice into fermentation jar, add sugar and yeast and put on air-lock. Do not disturb for 2 to 3 weeks until working stops (bubbles will stop rising in the airlock).
3. Siphon into sterilized wine bottles, cork and label. Store in wine cellar or cool dark place. Mature at least 3 months before sampling – the longer the better.