Restaurant Review
Sequel Restaurant and Catering
3362 Yonge St
(416) 480-0996
I’ve always been a great supporter of local farmers’ markets. I find it satisfying to know the people and the farm where my food is grown. I recall the very first time I felt this exciting connection in the 80s at the Karma Co-op where I had purchased some green peas with the name and location of the farmer proudly displayed. I got such a kick out of this that it has created an important shift in how my household spends our grocery dollars. These days I balance locally grown with organic in season.
In fact, it seems that all over Canada there is a similar shift in consciousness that many of us have made and are continuing to make regarding the source of our food.
This month we offer sincere applause to Lisa Rutland and Eric te Boerkhorst, co-owners of Sequel – the first boutique restaurant and catering company to partner with the LFP (Local Food Plus) program.
LFP is a non-profit organization that brings farmers and consumers together by minimizing the distance from “farm to folk.” LFP promotes a win-win situation where farmers benefit from a predictable income stream while the consumer supports local economies and hardworking Ontario farmers. The business (in this case Sequel) commits to purchase LFP certified products as part of menu plans, and consequently plays a much-needed role in the long term economic and environmental health of our community.
Sequel’s dedication to “going green” is huge. Both the restaurant and catering operations are powered by Bullfrog Power (wind turbines and solar power). The take-out packaging is 100% biodegradable, and I am impressed to say that 90% of their waste is recycled. This is a major commitment for a bustling kitchen.
We arrived at Sequel early one Wednesday evening and were rewarded with a private booth in the sophisticated main floor dining room. The elegance of the space was accented by walls adorned with oil paintings as quiet jazz played in the background. The ambience is intimate and cozy.
I was optimistic that an establishment committed to such eco-friendly ideals would also dish out some fabulous food, and I was not disappointed. Chef Matthew Kennedy’s menu is an inspired “meander” through Ontario’s seasonal bounty and abundance.
The appetizers and mains highlight local business sources and increase our awareness of Sequel’s guiding principles and mandate. Some of the supported farms include Monforte Dairy, Kerr Farms, and Weber Mennonite Farms.
I couldn’t resist Sequel’s Bloody Caesar Salad ($8), while my girlfriend Bella went for the Avocado Tartare ($10) for starters. We ordered wine as well – Ontario of course! It was an off-dry Riesling from the Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery ($8.75/glass). Our server, Carey, then brought us a tantalizing “amuse-bouche” to savour as we perused the menu – hummus with sun-dried tomato and a hint of curry served with fresh-baked crispy cranberry sea-salt flatbread. We are only slightly embarrassed when he thoughtfully brings us a second portion after the first one vanishes quickly.
Bella’s Avocado Tartare is creamy, light and pretty as a picture with pink grapefruit as the citrus component. The accompanying sesame sweet potato chips add to the elegant yet informal picnic. The playful Caesar gives roasted tomatoes a starring role; and contains a creamy dressing with hints of horseradish heat as well as slivers of padrano and baked celeriac chips which literally melt in your mouth.
Next, we are delighted with a sweet surprise to cleanse our palates – Pomegranate and Fresh Berry Granitas. These folks are serious about us having an enchanting meal!
On to the mains ... it is rare that I find one of my favourite dishes, Ontario pickerel, on a menu, so when I see it that’s usually my choice. Sequel’s version is a delicate, pan-roasted Lake Huron pickerel filet atop an aromatic vegetable stew and zingy ginger-radish slaw, served with fresh fingerling taters ($27). Each bite offers an intricate blend of flavours and I savour them all. Bella has opted for the Crisp Muscovy Duck Confit ($24). This classic dish requires a devoted kitchen and is executed perfectly here. It is presented atop a mound of scallion-leek mash, combined with roasted baby turnips, a tangy cranberry compote, and then further flavoured with rich dark jus. The unexpected combination of textures and tastes is a winner and she is happy with her choice.
Vegetarian mains include the Mushroom Risotto, featuring Ontario grown hand-picked seasonal mushrooms from Northern Wood Farms of Markdale. The daily pasta is created with local and seasonal ingredients, and can be altered to suit a patron’s request. Diners with specific dietary needs can call ahead and make arrangements with the kitchen for such items as non-gluten pasta for example.
Sequel’s menu changes with the seasons, so the autumn menu will be in effect in early September and our local harvest will enable Chef Matthew to further dazzle us with new tastes and presentations. Co-owner Lisa Rutland has spent much of the summer visiting with farmers, creating new relationships, and being inspired by the possibilities for bringing her patrons the best options. She is like a healthy ambassador for busy urban dwellers who welcome her invitation to dine on the best local cuisines prepared with sustainable business practices and a healthy environment in mind.
Check www.sequel.ca when you’re in the mood for a great culinary experience, the chance to be a part of the growing number of conscientious devotees, or perhaps to celebrate a special occasion onsite or via Toronto’s greenest catering enterprise.
Review by Carol Little
UPCOMING EVENT: September 22 (evening) Sequel Restaurant LFP Cooking Class with chef de cuisine Matthew Kennedy at Culinarium. Just south of Eglinton and Mt Pleasant. (647) 430-7004. www.culinarium.ca
